This segment was made available on Friday, July 22nd, 2005.

California Caviar

Produced by Joseph Angier / Edited by Claire Didier

Believe it or not, California is where it’s happening in caviar.

Based in Sacramento, Sterling Caviar is producing so-called black pearls of sturgeon roe that are earning both respect and a tidy profit. Their story goes back to 1979 and the overthrow of the Shah of Iran. After the U.S. embargoed Iranian caviar harvested from the Caspian Sea, a group of American businessmen thought of a new venture — producing caviar in California using the white sturgeon.

It turns out that the well waters around the state capital were just the right temperature for starting a sturgeon fish farm. Combining good science and business savvy, Sterling has become one of the world’s top producers of caviar. But the industry is hardly immune to threats, ranging from poachers linked to the Russian mob to environmental risks.

An earlier version of this story first aired July 22, 2005.

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